Shigu Rock Climbing Guide


Currently there are around 160 sports routes, 8 trad routes, 2 multipitch routes, and 2 two-pitch routes.

The topos were last updated December 2016 and are almost complete. New routes are going up every week.

This is a basic guide with just enough information to find the routes. Except for the initial 30 or so routes, which were bolted by a team sponsored by Kailas, all the routes have been bolted by individuals with gear bought at their own expense or with donations from visiting climbers. If you would like to contribute to the development (even just enough for one or two bolts is useful) then your donation will be gratefully received.

map showing the different climbing crags

Click the map for a bigger image.


钻石墙 Diamond Wall


Developed by the Shigu Climbing Base and in a beautiful location by the river. It takes about 40 minutes to walk there straight along the road. There are now four parts - the right wall with shorter tufa climbs, the middle wall with some short climbs for beginners, the left wall which has routes up to 35m long, and a back wall behind the middle wall with a few shaded routes. Topos for the middle and back wall are coming soon.

Right Wall 右墙

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 我爱石鼓 I love Shigu 张勇 Zhang Yong 啊玺 A'Xi 6b / 5.10d
2 擦干血迹 Wipe the blood stains 张勇 Zhang Yong 菜花 Cai Hua 6a+ / 5.10c
3 一个核桃 Walnut 邱江 Paul 张勇 Zhang Yong 6b+ / 5.11a
4 ? 邱江 Paul 飞沙 Fei Sha 6b+ / 5.11a
5 光芒 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6a+ / 5.10c
6 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 7a+ / 5.12a
7 7b / 5.12b
8 生日快乐 Happy Birthday 邱江 Paul 于静 Yu Jing 5c / 5.10a
9 红珊瑚 Red Coral 邱江 Paul 王影 Wang Ying 5c / 5.10a
10 老炮 Lao Pao 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6b+ / 5.11a
11 冬日暖阳 Winter Sun 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6b+ / 5.11a
12 海洋之心 Heart of the Sea 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6b / 5.10d
13 ? Marcos ? 5+ / 5.10a
14 ? Marcos ? 5+ / 5.10a

Left Wall 左墙

Climbing Routes on the Diamond Wall in Shigu
Route Name Bolter 开线者 First Ascent 首攀 Grade 难度
1 打地鼠 Wack-a-Mole 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6a+ / 5.10c
2 ? 邱江 Paul 于静 Yu JIng 6a+ / 5.10c
3 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6c+ / 5.11c
4 ?
The Bicycle Incident
邱江 Paul
Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo
邱江 Paul
?
6a+ / 5.10c
7c+ / 5.13a
5 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6a+ / 5.10c
6 Happy New Year Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo ? 6a / 5.10b
7c / 5.12d
7 Triple B Team Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo ? 8b / 5.13d
8 ? 邱江 Paul ? 8a / 5.13b
9 ? 邱江 Paul ? 7c+ / 5.13a
10 征服怪兽 Subdue the Shapeshifter 飞沙 Fei Sha 小乔 Xiao Qiao 5c / 5.10a
11 喊破喉咙 Yell Hoarse 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul
?
5 / 5.9
8b / 5.13d
12 Searching For No More Wang Er 王二
Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo
Wang Er 王二
Enzo Oddo
7b / 5.12b
8b+ / 5.14a
13 6 Beers a Day Keep the Doctor Away Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo Open Project ?
14 Baijiu Creation Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo ? 7b / 5.12b
15 3cm Hard! Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo ? 5a / 5.9
16 ? ? ? 4+ / 5.8
17 ? ? ? 4+ / 5.8

Water Wall 水岩


Not many routes yet but a nice location. Routes 4 to 6 are all excellent.

>
Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 ? 邱江 Paul 周磊 Zhou Lei 12m 5.9 / 5
2 ? 邱江 Paul 周磊 Zhou Lei 12 5.8 / 4+
3 ? 邱江 Paul 周磊 Zhou Lei 12 5.7 / 4
4 香樟树 邱江 Paul邱江 Paul p1 - 30m, p2 - 15m 6c+ / 5.11c
5 ? Marcos Costa Marcos Costa 36m 7b / 5.12b
6 黄杨木 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 36m 7a / 5.11d
7 坏梨子 Bad Pear 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 7a+ / 5.12a
8 借火 Borrow a Light 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 17m 6b / 5.10d

The Courtyard 院子墙


The first routes were put up in January 2017 by Marcos Costa and Enzo Oddo.

It's clearly visible looking out from the cave up and left. From the cave cross the river over the pipes. Follow the track up to the quarry. From there the path is clear but the final part to the crag is a little bit of a scramble.

Route Name 名称 Grade 难度
1 Rap Slayer Open Project
2 Chillin' Like a Villain Open Project
3 AK47 is the Tool Open Project
4 Trump Le Biscuit Open Project
5 Evening Rape 8a / 5.13b
6 Sponsored by Zhoulei 7c+ / 5.13a
7 Sponsored by Xiaoliu 8a+ / 5.13c
8 Sexy Green Top 7b / 5.12b

史帝芬墙,日坛墙,晨光墙 Stephen Wall, Ritan Wall and Morning Light

日坛墙 RiTan Wall


Excellent and varied face climbing with massive multi-pitch potential.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 Open project 邱江 Paul 37m 7c / 5.12d ?? Open project
2 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 35m 6c+ / 5.11c
3 Closed Project 邱江 Paul 37m Closed Project
4 ? 邱江 Paul ? P1 30m
P2 25m
P1 5.8
P2 5.9
Use the anchor of route 2 to get down. Needs a 70m rope.
5 Closed Project 邱江 Paul Closed Project
6 钟鼓齐鸣 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 24m 6b+ / 5.11a
7 金汤力 Jin Tang Li 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 26m 6b+ / 5.11a
8 暴晒十月 Baked in the October Sun 于静和张晓柳 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu 20m 6a+ / 5.10c
9 丽江飘来的雨 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 22m 6b / 5.10d
10 The First 第一个 于静和张晓柳 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu 25m 6c / 5.11b
11 血草莓 Blood Strawberry 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 20m 6b+ / 5.11a

晨光墙 Morning Light


Bolted by Paul 邱江 from the the Shigu Climbing Base.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 25m 5 / 5.9
2 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 20m 4 / 5.7
3 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4 / 5.7
4 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4+ / 5.8
5 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4+ / 5.8
6 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 40m 7a / 5.11d Finishes on a big ledge with a fixed rope. If your rope is short ,you can rap off to the anchor on route 9.
7 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 20m 6a / 5.10b
8 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 18m 5+ / 5.10a
9 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul P1 18m
P2 20m
P1 5.9
P2 5.9
After the top anchor there are three more bolts which take you to the ledge.
10 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 17m 5 / 5.9

The Pyramids 金字塔


The routes require traditional protection but have bolted anchors.

Front Face

Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 Scarab Beetle Reuben Greenbank 6a+ / 5.10c This line is 33m long. You need a 70m rope to get down in one. If your rope is shorter you can use the anchor on route 2.
2 ? Eben Farnworth 6a+ / 5.10c

Right Side

Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 3+ / 5.6 A good route for beginners.
2
Pitch 1
3+ / 5.6 A good route for beginners.
2
Pitch 2
4 / 5.7 Make a traditional anchor on top to bring up the second. There is a rappel anchor on the face. Use the anchors on the face climbs to get down safely.

Cave Right Side


On the right side of the cave and close to the road there are a few more routes.

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the right of the cave
Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Renegade Master ? 8a / 5.13b
2 Open Project 8a / 5.13b ?
3 生活在别处 Life is somewhere else 陈柯亮 7c+ / 5.13a
4 ? ? 5+ / 5.9
5 ? ? 6a+ 5.10c
6 ? ? 4+ / 5.8

The Cave 大洞


This was the first sector to be developed. Most of the routes were bolted in June 2014 by a team sponsored by Kailas. Since then, there's been a lot more development making it the most established climbing area in the valley. It's a really cool feature and all the routes are worth climbing.

Routes 11 and 12 are the 2 routes starting close together on the right edge of the cave. Routes 19 and 20 go up through a big tufa system. Using these as a guide, it should be possible to count the lines and find the route you want.

Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Under the moon 阿亮 A'Liang 7a+ / 5.12a
2 Over the rainbow 张勇 Zhang Yong 7b+ / 5.12c
3 吃饱了 I'm full Sylvain Audibert 15/11/15 7c+ / 5.13a
4 ? 大魏 Da Wei 01/12/2015 7c+ / 5.13a
5 Travel Diary 阿成 A'Cheng 8a+ / 5.13c
6 让我想一想 Mark 23/06/15 8a / 5.13b
7 长江第一湾 First bend of the Yangtze 大魏 Da Wei 30/11/2015 8a / 5.13b
8 ? 张勇 Zhang Yong 7a+ / 5.12a
9 ? 家尧 7b+ / 5.12c
10 小粒的勇气 A Grain of Courage 大魏 Da Wei 7b+ / 5.12c
11 石鼓的院子 Shigu Courtyard 赵四 Zhao Si 6c+ / 5.11c
12 离别 Farewell ? 6c+ / 5.11c
13 寻岩二十年 Twenty Year Rock Search 张勇 Zhang Yong 6c / 5.11b
14 拉肚子难度表 赵四 Zhao Si 6b / 5.10d
15 猪鼻子 Pig nose 大魏 Da Wei 6c+ / 5.11c
16 ? ? 7c+/ 5.13a
17 完美搭档 Perfect Partner 大魏 Da Wei 7b+/ 5.12c
18 A Reminder 阿成 A'Cheng 7a / 5.11d
19 ? ? 6b / 5.10d
20 搞左了 Eben Farnworth 6b / 5.10d
21 The Pinch 王二 Wang Er 6b+ / 5.11a
22 五千块 Five Thousand Yuan Eben Farnworth 6c+ / 5.11c
23 ? 张勇 Zhang Yong 6b+ / 5.11a
24 ? ? 6b+ / 5.11a
25 Ants in Your Pants Reuben Greenbank 6b / 5.10d
26 Hiland Warrior 王二 Wang Er 6c+ / 5.11c
27 奴役之路 Chained to the Road 板凳熊Ban Deng Xiong 5c / 5.10a
28 寻找巨岩 In Search of Big Walls ? 6a+ / 5.10c

Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 (Cave Left Side 大洞左侧)


This wall is about 100m left of the cave. You can reach it by a path from the road, or from the cave follow the path through the bamboo. The routes on the left offer some technical face climbing, and the routes on the right are a good introduction to steep tufa climbing.

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the left of the cave
Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 小心竹钉 苏峰 6b+ / 5.11a
2 粉红色的回忆 邱江 6b+ / 5.11a
3 下午地狱 7a / 5.11d
4 飞天鼠的阳台 赵四 7a / 5.11d
5 紫色传奇 大魏 7b / 5.12b
6 烈日骄阳 Marcos 6c+ / 5.11c
7 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 邱江 6c / 5.11b
8 四人定制 4+ / 5.8
9 假装5.9 龙少 6a+ / 5.10c
10 赵洪舟 6a / 5.10b
11 口是心非 罗茜 5 / 5.9
12 Black Angel 阿成 6c / 5.11b
13 Pokai in Hell 6c / 5.11b
14 Devil's Beard 赵四 6b+ / 5.11a
15 Heaven and Hell 今今 6b / 5.10d
16 Elephants' Graveyard Dennis and Maddie 6a+ / 5.10c
17 泥鳅 阿成 6b+ / 5.11a
18 钟乳石联系区 阿成 6a+ / 5.10c

Socks Wall 袜子墙


Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 新袜子 New Socks Reuben Greenbank 飞沙 Fei Sha 04/2016 25m 6a+ / 5.10c
2 P1 Kaku & Fumi 噶库 & 福米
P1+P2 One More Time 再来一遍
Reuben Greenbank Yang Bin 杨斌 12/2016
Gugu 古古 04/2017
23m
34m
5c / 5.10a
6c / 5.11b
3 20 Kuai Head Splitter Tom Wright Peter Mortimer 06/2015 35m 6b+ / 5.11a
4 Socks Plant Tom Wright Thomas Wright 04/2015 34m 6a+ / 5.10c
5 Underwater Drum Master Reuben Greenbank Edward Kim 04/2016 26m 7a / 5.11d
6 Double Dragon Reuben Greenbank Nicolas Duenas 11/2015 28m 6c / 5.11b
7 Da Mighty One 大麦地 1 Reuben Greenbank Ciaran Griffin 04/2016 28m 6b / 5.10d

Flying Squirrel Crag 飞鼠岩


The crag got its name after a flying squirrel made a spectacular leap from a hole near the top of the first route to be bolted (Attack of the Flying Squirrel). It's in a beautiful little valley with walnut trees providing all day shade. It's a lot bigger and better than it looks on the photo.

Route 12 is in the small cave before the main crag.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Goat Cheese Reuben Greenbank Devin Perno 12/2016 6a / 5.10b
2 七星 Seven Stars Reuben Greenbank 瑄瑄 Xuanxuan 03/2017 6a+ / 5.10c
3 扣扣秘方 KouKouMiFang 马铭 Ma Ming 马铭 Ma Ming 12/2016 6b / 5.10d
4 "粑粑辣子 egg butty" Peter Mortimer Tom Wright 02/2015 6c / 5.11b
5 慢慢做 Slowly Does It Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 02/2015 6b+ / 5.11a
6 The Squirrel Fights Back Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 10/2015 7b / 5.12b
7 Balles Bak Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 10/2016 7b+ / 5.12c
8 Attack of the Flying Squirrel Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 02/2015 7a+ / 5.12a
9 Winds of Change Tom Wright Peter Mortimer 02/2015 7c / 5.12d
10 Four Wise Cows Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 10/2015 7a / 5.11d
11 家尧 Jia Yao 家尧 Jia Yao 12/2016 7a / 5.11d
12 Squirrelicious Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 12/2015 6c+ / 5.11c
13 梦的开始 The Start of Dreams 马铭 Ma Ming 马铭 Ma Ming 12/2016 4+ / 5.8

Deception Wall


This great multipitch wall is on the hill overlooking the courtyard. It takes 30 minutes walk to get to the base, and a path running along the top will bring you all the way back in under an hour. It faces west and has shade until 1pm making climbing possible even in the hotter months.


The Lonely Sherpa

Bolting and FA by Peter Mortimer and Laelia Jaelle (December 2015)

Varied climbing with rooves, tufas, corners, dihedrals and crimpy faces.

The longest pitch (pitch 3) is 33m. It is recommended to take a 70m rope in case you need to lower off.

Pitch 1 - A roof guards the top of pitch 1. Possibly the hardest move on the route, if you can get through this then you should be able to climb the rest.

Pitch 3 - Some tricky moves on small holds make this the crux pitch of the route.

朝阳坡 Sunny Hill


The closest crag to Stone Drum House with a 15 minute approach. Face and slab climbs on interesting rock, and great views down the valley.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 感恩 Gratitude Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 12m 4+ / 5.8
2 Bicycle Adventure Reuben Greenbank Sylvain Audibert 25m 6b+ / 5.11a
3 Shark Attack Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 17m 6c / 5.11b
4 老夫 Old Husband Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 16m 6a+ / 5.10c
5 老妻 Old Wife Eric Ling 张翎 16m 5 / 5.9
6 红烧屁股 Red Braised Buttocks Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 24m 6a / 5.10b
7 Tune In Tokyo Reuben Greenbank Peter Mortimer 25m 6b+ / 5.11a
8 Daddy's Boy Reuben Greenbank Peter Mortimer 25m 6c / 5.11b
9 Wangcai was a good dog. 旺财是个好狗 Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 24m 6c+ / 5.11c
10 越过三邱 Across the three hills. Reuben Greenbank 周鹏 Zhou Peng 18m 6b / 5.10d
11 蜜蜂在哪里? Where are all the bees? Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 25m 6a / 5.10b
12 豌豆花 Pea Flower Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 18m 6a / 5.10b
13 臭虫 Stink Bug Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 18m 5 / 5.9
14 名杰信 Ming Jie Xin Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 15m 5 / 5.9
15 多带水 Bring More Water Reuben Greenbank 李兰 Li Lan 14m 4+ / 5.8