Shigu Rock Climbing Guide


Currently there are just over 250 single pitch sport routes, 6 multipitch routes, and a few trad routes.

This is a basic guide, which will be updated in full until a time comes when it is worth making a printed edition.
It is complete and accurate to the best of our knowledge, but where you see the symbol "?" it means that this information is unknown to us.
Except for the initial 30 or so routes, which were bolted by a team sponsored by Kailas, all the routes have been bolted by individuals with gear bought at their own expense or with donations from visiting climbers. If you would like to contribute to the development (even just enough for one or two bolts is useful) then your donation will be gratefully received.

Most of the crags are a short hike from the Stone Drum House. However, if visiting the Diamond Wall, or the Water Wall it is easier to take a 4km taxi ride followed by a 5 minute walk to the Diamond Wall, or a 15 minute walk to the Water Wall.
A taxi to the drop off for both walls is 20 yuan.

map showing the different climbing crags

Click the map for a bigger image.


钻石墙 Diamond Wall


This is the most developed area in Shigu with climbs of all grades and styles. The location is very picturesque and kid friendly.

There are four walls; the left wall with technical routes up to 35m long on slightly overhanging rock, the middle wall with fun easy routes on conglomerate, the right wall with overhanging tufas, and the back wall with a few shaded routes.

Sun: Winter - after 11am / Summer - after 1pm
Rain: Most of the right wall and some routes on the left wall can be climbed while it is raining. Most routes can be climbed straight after the rain or between showers.

Left Wall 左墙

Routes 4 5 7 8 12 13 14 15 and 16 require a 70m rope.

Climbing Routes on the Diamond Wall in Shigu
Route Name Bolter 开线者 First Ascent 首攀 Grade 难度
1 ? ? ? 6a+ / 5.10c
2 打地鼠 Wack-a-Mole 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6a+ / 5.10c
3 ? 邱江 Paul 于静 Yu JIng 6a / 5.10b
4 一十百 one ten a hundred 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6c+ / 5.11c
5 P1 - ?
Extension - The Bicycle Incident
邱江 Paul
Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo
邱江 Paul
Marcos Costa
p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c
p2 - 7c+ / 5.13a
6 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6a+ / 5.10c
7 Happy New Year Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo Enzo Oddo p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c
p2 - 7b+ / 5.12c
8 Triple B Team Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo Enzo Oddo 8a+ / 5.13c
9 ? 邱江 Paul Enzo Oddo p1 - 7a+ / 5.12a
p2 - 7c+ / 5.13a
10 肥肠俱乐部 Sausage Club 邱江 Paul 家尧 Jia Yao 7c+ / 5.13a
11 征服怪兽 Subdue the Shapeshifter 飞沙 Fei Sha 小乔 Xiao Qiao 5c / 5.10a
12 喊破喉咙 Yell Hoarse 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul
Enzo Oddo
p1 - 5+ / 5.10a
p2 - 8a+ / 5.13c
13 蓝色港湾 Blue Harbour 家尧 JiaYao p1 - 心伦法师
p2 - 小侯 Xiao Hou
p1 - 6a+ / 5.10c
p2 - 8a / 5.13b
14 Searching For No More Wang Er 王二
Left Extension - 家尧Jiayao
Right Extension - Enzo Oddo
Wang Er 王二
Left Extension - 家尧Jiayao
Right Extension - Enzo Oddo
7a / 5.11d
7c+ / 5.13a
8b+ / 5.14a
15 6 Beers a Day Keep the Doctor Away Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo Roland Hemetzberger 8a / 5.13b
16 Baijiu Creation Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo Marcos Costa 7a+ / 5.12a
17 3cm Hard! Marcos Costa + Enzo Oddo ? 5a / 5.9
18 ? ? ? 4+ / 5.8
19 ? ? ? 4 / 5.7

Middle Wall 中墙

Climbing Routes on the Diamond Wall in Shigu
Route Name Bolter 开线者 First Ascent 首攀 Grade 难度
1 ? 邱江 Paul ? 5a / 5.9
2 ? 邱江 Paul ? 5a / 5.9
3 ? 邱江 Paul ? 5b / 5.10a
4 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6a / 5.10b
5 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6a+ / 5.10c
6 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6b / 5.10d
7 ? 邱江 Paul ? 6a / 5.10b
8 魔童 Devil Child 邱江 Paul 家尧 Jia Yao 7c / 5.12d
9 图腾 Totem 邱江 Paul 家尧 Jia Yao 7b / 5.12b

Right Wall 右墙

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 我爱石鼓 I love Shigu 张勇 Zhang Yong 啊玺 A'Xi 6b / 5.10d
2 擦干血迹 Wipe the blood stains 张勇 Zhang Yong 菜花 Cai Hua 6b / 5.10d
3 一个核桃 Walnut 邱江 Paul 张勇 Zhang Yong 6b+ / 5.11a
4 ? 邱江 Paul 飞沙 Fei Sha 6b+ / 5.11a
5 光芒 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6a+ / 5.10c
6 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 7a+ / 5.12a
7 ? ? ? 7b / 5.12b
8 生日快乐 Happy Birthday 邱江 Paul 于静 Yu Jing 5c / 5.10a
9 红珊瑚 Red Coral 邱江 Paul 王影 Wang Ying 5c / 5.10a
10 老炮 Lao Pao 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6b / 5.10d
11 冬日暖阳 Winter Sun 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6b / 5.10d
12 海洋之心 Heart of the Sea 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 6a / 5.10b
13 ? Marcos ? 5+ / 5.10a
14 ? Marcos ? 5+ / 5.10a
15 ? ? ? 6a+ / 5.10c

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Secret Garden 秘密花园


A large riverside boulder around 2km up the river past Diamond Wall. There are also a number of boulder problems close by.

Sun: All day shade
Rain: Protected from the rain.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 ? Marcos Costa ? 5.13- ??
2 ? Marcos Costa ? 5.12+ ??
3 ? 邱江 Paul Marcos Costa 7b+ / 5.12c
4 ? 邱江 Paul ? 5.12+ ??

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Water Wall 水岩


The main wall has long routes on high quality rock.

Sun: Winter - all day / Summer - some shade from 2pm
Rain: Routes 7 to 12 stay dry in rain. Most routes can be climbed straight after the rain.

Access - The crag can be reached by a 15 minute walk from either the Diamond Wall or the Cave. Follow the signposted track towards the Diamond Wall. Cross the river over the new steel bridge and turn right following the river. Follow the obvious trail until you see a bamboo gate and the perimeter fence of a property. Turn left and go around the edge of the fence. The path becomes clearer and there are some ropes which lead the way up the hill to the crag.

It is also possible to reach the crag from the cave. Cross the river near the cave and follow the dirt track until you reach the irrigation water channel. Follow this until just before it joins the river. There, there is a concrete bridge and the path goes up through the trees and comes out directly bellow the water wall.

Multi-pitch - There is also a worthwhile 4 pitch route following interesting crack and tufa features. Pitches 1 and 2 can be joined, so can pitches 3 and 4. However, it's better to rappel in four. A 60m rope is sufficient.

Thanks to Paul 邱江 for his hard work bolting.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 ? 邱江 Paul ? 25m 6b / 5.10d
2 ? 邱江 Paul ? 25m 6a+ / 5.10c
3 ? 邱江 Paul ? 18m 5c / 5.10a
4 ? 邱江 Paul ? 12m 5.9?
5 糖三角 Sugar Triangle 邱江 Paul 周磊 Zhou Lei 12m 5a / 5.9
6 小气鬼 Stingy ghost 邱江 Paul 周磊 Zhou Lei 15m 4+ / 5.8
7 无影脚 Shadowless kick 邱江 Paul p1 - 周磊 Zhou Lei
p3 to p4 - ??
p1 - 15m
p2 - 25m
p3 - 20m
p4 - 20m
p1 - 5.7 / 4
p2 - 5.10a / 5c
p3 - 5.10c / 6a+
p4 - 5.10c / 6a+
8 ? 邱江 Paul ? 20m ?
9 ? 邱江 Paul ? p1 - 15m
p2 - 23m
p1 - 5.7 / 4
p2 - 7b/5.12b
10 香樟树 Camphor tree 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul p1 - 30m, p2 - 15m 6c+ / 5.11c
11 疯狂的马克思Mad Marcos Marcos Costa Marcos Costa 36m 7b / 5.12b
12 黄杨木Boxwood 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 36m 7a+ / 5.12a
13 ? 邱江 Paul ? 30m 5.12?
14 ? 邱江 Paul ? 25m 5.12?
15 ? 邱江 Paul ? 20m 6b+ / 5.11a
16 ? 邱江 Paul ? 12m 5c / 5.10a
17 ? 邱江 Paul ? 15m 5a / 5.9
18 ? 邱江 Paul ? 20m 7a / 5.11d
19 坏梨子 Bad Pear 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 7b / 5.12b
20 借火 Borrow a Light 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 17m 6b / 5.10d

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The Courtyard 院子墙


The first routes were put up in January 2017 by Marcos Costa and Enzo Oddo. The access is pretty overgrown in places but if you make the effort you will be rewarded with some interesting climbing and great views. As far as I know the projects have not yet been climbed witht the easiest being around 7b.

Access - It's clearly visible looking out from the cave up and left. From the cave cross the river over the pipes. Follow the track up to the quarry. From there the path is clear but the final part to the crag is a little bit of a scramble.

Route Name 名称 Grade 难度
1 Rap Slayer Open Project
2 Chillin' Like a Villain Open Project
3 AK47 is the Tool Open Project
4 Trump Le Biscuit Open Project
5 Evening Rape 8a / 5.13b
6 Sponsored by Zhoulei 7c+ / 5.13a
7 Sponsored by Xiaoliu 8a+ / 5.13c
8 Sexy Green Top 7b / 5.12b

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史帝芬墙,日坛墙,晨光墙 Stephen Wall, Ritan Wall and Morning Light

日坛墙 RiTan Wall


Excellent and varied face climbing.

Sun: All day
Rain: No protection and needs half a day to dry after heavy rain.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 Open project 邱江 Paul 37m 7c / 5.12d ?? Open project
2 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 35m 6c+ / 5.11c
3 ? 邱江 Paul ? 37m 7a / 5.11d
4 ? 邱江 Paul ? P1 30m
P2 25m
P1 5.8
P2 5.9
Use the anchor of route 2 to get down. Needs a 70m rope.
5 ? 邱江 Paul 25m 5+ / 5.10a
6 钟鼓齐鸣 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 24m 6b / 5.10d
7 金汤力 Jin Tang Li 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 26m 6b / 5.10d
8 Red Velvet 红绒 Reuben Greenbank 蒋俊文 Jiang Junwen 25m 7a / 5.11d
9 Aliens Like Jelly Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 18m 7a+ / 5.12a
10 桃花舞Peach Flower Dance Reuben Greenbank 李楠 Seven 20m 6a+ / 5.10c
11 蘑菇头Mushroom Head Reuben Greenbank 杨斌 Yang Bin 15m 6b+ / 5.11a
12 义诊 Free Dental Clinic Reuben Greenbank 丁舒君 Ding Shujun 17m 6a / 5.10b The grade is height dependent.
13 暴晒十月 Baked in the October Sun 于静和张晓柳 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu 20m 6a / 5.10b
14 丽江飘来的雨 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 22m 6a+ / 5.10c
15 The First 第一个 于静和张晓柳 张晓柳 Zhang Xiao Liu 25m 6b+ / 5.11a
16 血草莓 Blood Strawberry 于静和张晓柳 于静 Yu Jing 20m 6b+ / 5.11a
17 冠状病毒 Coronavirus Reuben Greenbank 蒋俊文 Jiang Junwen 20m 6c / 5.11b
18 The Come Back Reuben Greenbank Joe Langwald 20m 6c+ / 5.11c

晨光墙 Morning Light


Sun: All day sun
Rain: No protection and needs half a day to dry after heavy rain.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 25m 5 / 5.9
2 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 20m 4 / 5.7
3 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4 / 5.7
4 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4+ / 5.8
5 ? 邱江 Paul ? ? 5.12?
6 ? 邱江 Paul ? ? 5.12?
7 ? 邱江 Paul ? ? 5.12?
8 ? 邱江 Paul ? ? 5.12?
9 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 15m 4+ / 5.8
10 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 40m 7a / 5.11d Finishes on a big ledge with a fixed rope. If your rope is short ,you can rap off to the anchor on route 9.
11 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 20m 6a / 5.10b
12 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 18m 5+ / 5.10a
13 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul P1 18m
P2 20m
P1 5.9
P2 5.9
After the top anchor there are three more bolts which take you to the ledge.
14 ? 邱江 Paul 邱江 Paul 17m 5 / 5.9

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The Pyramids 金字塔


The following routes require traditional protection but have bolted anchors.

Front Face

Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 Scarab Beetle Reuben Greenbank 6a+ / 5.10c This line is 33m long. You need a 70m rope to get down in one. If your rope is shorter you can use the anchor on route 2.
2 Tomb Raider Eben Farnworth 6a+ / 5.10c

Right Side

Grade 难度 Notes 备注
1 3+ / 5.6 A good route for beginners.
2
Pitch 1
3+ / 5.6 A good route for beginners.
2
Pitch 2
4 / 5.7 Make a traditional anchor on top to bring up the second. There is a rappel anchor on the face. Use the anchors on the face climbs to get down safely.

On the right side of the Pyramids there is also a 3 pitch bolted route, bolted by Cedric Bien-Gund.
It is The route is named "Bienosaurus" which is the name of a dinosaur discovered by his Great Uncle Bian Meinian in Yunnan in 1938.
Descent is either by walk off down the right, or by rappel.


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Cave Right Side


On the right side of the cave and close to the road there are a few more routes.

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the right of the cave
Route Name 名称 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Renegade Master ? 8a / 5.13b
2 ? ? 8a / 5.13b
3 生活在别处 Life is somewhere else 陈柯亮 7c+ / 5.13a
4 ? ? 5+ / 5.9
5 ? ? 6a+ 5.10c
6 ? ? 4+ / 5.8

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The Cave 大洞


Fun climbing on tufas and conglomerate rock.

Sun: Winter - all day shade. / Summer - sun on the right side after 3pm
Rain: Most of the routes stay completely dry in the rain, but the climber will get a bit wet clipping the anchors on some routes. Unlike many caves in Yunnan, there isn't a problem with seeping in the summer.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Under the moon Marcos / 阿成 阿亮 A'Liang 7a+ / 5.12a
2 Over the rainbow Marcos / 阿成 张勇 Zhang Yong 7b+ / 5.12c
3 吃饱了 I'm full Marcos Sylvain Audibert 7c / 5.12d
4 I'm full variation - 大魏 Da Wei 7c+ / 5.13a
5 环攀世界Climb Around the World - 吓大的米粉 8b / 5.13d
6 Travel Diary Marcos / 龙少 阿成 A'Cheng 8a / 5.13b
7 Schlong Again Extension - Enzo Oddo Enzo Oddo 8b+ / 5.14a
8 让我想一想 Marcos / Eben Mark 8a / 5.13b
9 长江第一湾 First bend of the Yangtze 邱江 / 龙少 大魏 Da Wei 8a / 5.13b
10 P1 - 穹顶之下 Under the Dome
Extension - 毒刺 Poison Sting
张勇
Enzo Oddo
P1 - 张勇 Zhang Yong
Extension - 家尧 Jia Yao
P1 - 7a+
Extension - 8b / 5.13d
11 马上有钱 Get Money Soon 阿成 Project Project
12 晕头转向 Disoriented Eben / Alberto 家尧 Jia Yao 7b / 5.12b
13 小粒的勇气 A Grain of Courage 赵四 / 八月 大魏 Da Wei 7b+ / 5.12c
14 旋壁雀 Wallcreeper Aaron Yu & 吓大的米粉 吓大的米粉 7c / 5.12d
15 石鼓的院子 Shigu Courtyard 赵四 / 八月 赵四 Zhao Si 6c+ / 5.11c
16 离别 Farewell 赵四 / 八月 裂缝 6c / 5.11b
17 寻岩二十年 Twenty Year Rock Search 张勇 / 李兰 张勇 Zhang Yong 6c / 5.11b

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
17 寻岩二十年 Twenty Year Rock Search 张勇 / 李兰 张勇 Zhang Yong 6c / 5.11b
18 拉肚子难度表 张勇 / 周磊 赵四 Zhao Si 6b+ / 5.11a
19 炒冷饭 小文 Wenpei He Roy 7b / 5.12b
20 猪鼻子 Pig nose 邱江 大魏 Da Wei 6c+ / 5.11c
21 阿刚 Enzo Oddo 7c / 5.12d
22 完美搭档 Perfect Partner 赵四 / 李兰 大魏 Da Wei 7b+/ 5.12c
23 A Reminder 赵四 / 板凳熊 阿成 A'Cheng 7a / 5.11d
24 ? 王二 王二 6b / 5.10d
25 搞左了 Eben Farnworth Eben Farnworth 6b / 5.10d
26 The Pinch 王二 王二 Wang Er 6c+ / 5.11c
27 五千块 Five Thousand Yuan Eben / 周磊 Eben Farnworth 6c+ / 5.11c
28 ? 张勇 / Eben 张勇 Zhang Yong 6b+ / 5.11a
29 ? 张勇 / Eben 张勇 Zhang Yong 6b+ / 5.11a
30 Ants in Your Pants Eben Farnworth Reuben Greenbank 6b / 5.10d
31 Hiland Warrior 王二 王二 Wang Er 6c+ / 5.11c
32 奴役之路 Chained to the Road 张勇 / 今今 板凳熊 5c / 5.10a
33 寻找巨岩 In Search of Big Walls 张勇 / 今今 小爽 6a+ / 5.10c

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Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙


This wall is very close to the cave. The routes on the left are very varied, including some really nice face climbing, and the routes on the right are a good introduction to steep tufa climbing.

Sun: Winter - all day shade / Summer - after 3pm
Rain: The right wall stays dry in the rain. Most routes can be climbed soon after the rain.

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the left of the cave

Left Wall 左墙

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the left of the cave
Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Lucy got Loose
Extension - Chasing Rainbows
Reuben Greenbank Rachel Hemingway
Reuben Greenbank
5b / 5.9
6b+ / 5.11a
2 魔都岩者Magic City Climber Reuben Greenbank 章鱼 Zhang Yu 6a+ / 5.10c
3 Rainbows and Unicorns Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 6b+ / 5.11a
4 Cheeky Monkey Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 6c+ / 5.11c
5 老猪的礼物 An Old Pig's Gift Tyler Wellman Cauli 花菜 6b / 5.10d
6 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk Reuben Greenbank Kevin Blasko 6a+ / 5.10c
7 安乐窝 An Le Wo Reuben Greenbank Ling 5b / 5.9
8 Nectarine Induced Coma Reuben Greenbank Jonny 6c / 5.11b
9 小心竹钉 苏峰 / 赵洪舟 苏峰 6b+ / 5.11a
10 粉红色的回忆 邱江 / 黄超 邱江 6b+ / 5.11a
11 下午地狱 邱江 / 黄超 7a+ / 5.12a
12 一荤一素 One meat, one veg Reuben Greenbank 饼饼王羽欣 Bingbing 6c / 5.11b
13 飞天鼠的阳台 张晓柳 / 黄超 赵四 7a / 5.11d
14 紫色传奇 张晓柳 / 苏峰 大魏 7b / 5.12b
15 烈日骄阳 苏峰 / 张晓柳 Marcos 6c+ / 5.11c
16 早午饭后 After Brunch Reuben Greenbank 王子薇 Vi 6a / 5.10b (Left variation)
6b+ / 5.11a (Right variation)
17 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 苏峰 / 赵洪舟 邱江 6c / 5.11b
18 私人定制 苏峰 / 赵洪舟 板凳熊 4+ / 5.8

Right Wall 友墙

A topo showing the routes for the wall to the left of the cave
Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 什锦饭 Jimbalaya Reuben Greenbank 经纬 6b / 5.10d
2 ? ? 6b+ / 5.11a
3 真的5.9 Reuben Greenbank 张翎 Ling 5a / 5.9
4 假装5.9 邱江 龙少 6a+ / 5.10c
5 多恩亲王 李兰 / 赵四 赵洪舟 6a / 5.10b
6
Left Extension
Right Extension
口是心非
?
?
赵四 / 李兰
?
?
罗茜
?
?
5c / 5.10a
5 / 5.9
5c / 5.10a
7 Black Angel 阿成 阿成 6c+ / 5.11c
8 Pokai in Hell 阿成 ? 6c / 5.11b
9 Devil's Beard 阿成 / Marcos 赵四 6b / 5.10d
10 Heaven and Hell Marcos 今今 6b / 5.10d
11 Elephants' Graveyard Dennis and Maddie Dennis and Maddie 6a+ / 5.10c
12 泥鳅 邱江 / 龙少 阿成 6c / 5.11b
13 钟乳石练习区 邱江 / 龙少 阿成 6a+ / 5.10c

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Socks Wall 袜子墙


Long and varied climbing on tufas and pockets. Hike time is 20 to 25 minute but well worth it for some of the best climbs in Shigu at their grades.

Sun: Shade after 2pm
Rain: No protection and the path is slippery when wet. Needs half a day to dry after rain.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 Red Sox 红色的袜子 Reuben Greenbank Peter Mortimer 28m 7b / 5.12b
2 新袜子 New Socks Reuben Greenbank 飞沙 Fei Sha 25m 6a+ / 5.10c
3 A Life Full of You Reuben Greenbank Joachim Corstiaans 34m 6b+ / 5.11a
4 Cheap Socks 便宜的袜子 Reuben Greenbank Christoph Bode 18m 5 / 5.9
5 P1 - Kaku & Fumi 噶库 & 福米
Extension - One More Time 再来一遍
Reuben Greenbank Yang Bin 杨斌
Gugu 古古
23m
34m
5c / 5.10a
6c / 5.11b
6 20 Kuai Head Splitter Tom Wright Peter Mortimer 35m 6b+ / 5.11a
7 Socks Plant Tom Wright Thomas Wright 34m 6a+ / 5.10c
8 Underwater Drum Master Reuben Greenbank Edward Kim 26m 6c+ / 5.11c
9 Double Dragon Reuben Greenbank Nicolas Duenas 28m 6c / 5.11b
10 Da Mighty One 大麦地 1 Reuben Greenbank Ciaran Griffin 28m 6b / 5.10d

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The Long March Crag 长征墙


Keep going past the Socks Wall for another 10 minutes for this unique looking crag. Routes are long and slightly overhanging. If using the midway anchors you need to be lowered twice, staying attached to the belayer's rope.

Sun: Shade after 2pm
Rain: Complete protection from the rain but the approach is slippery when wet.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度 Length 长度 Notes
1 Shortie Fights Back A'Yun A'Yun 7b / 5.12b 15m Easier for shorter climbers
2 The Long March Reuben Greenbank Joseph DeGaetano 7a+ / 5.12a 42m 21 quickdraws. Midway anchor for 60m ropes. Can be done in one with an 80m.
3 Open Project Marcos and Reuben 8b / 5.13+ ?? 35m Hard
4 Écureuil agile est tout bleu Pascal Pascal 6b+ / 5.11a 46m 20 quickdraws. Midway anchor but still needs a 70m rope

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Flying Squirrel Crag 飞鼠岩


The crag got its name after a flying squirrel made a spectacular leap from a hole near the top of the first route to be bolted (Attack of the Flying Squirrel). The climbing is steep with big holds and tufas. It's in a beautiful little valley with walnut trees providing all day shade.

Sun: All day shade.
Rain: The routes stay dry, but you may get wet clipping the anchors on some routes.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Goat Cheese Reuben Greenbank Devin Perno 6a+ / 5.10c
2 七星 Seven Stars Reuben Greenbank 瑄瑄 Xuanxuan 6a+ / 5.10c
3 扣扣秘方 KouKouMiFang 马铭 Ma Ming 马铭 Ma Ming 6b / 5.10d
4 "粑粑辣子 egg butty" Peter Mortimer Tom Wright 6c / 5.11b
5 Yemenite Step Reuben Greenbank Elad Kuperstock 7a / 5.11c/d
6 慢慢做 Slowly Does It Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 6b+ / 5.11a
7 Grazing Goat Reuben Greenbank Kieran Amin 6c / 5.11b
8 The Squirrel Fights Back Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 7b / 5.12b
9 向左向右 Reuben Greenbank 阿亮 A'Liang 7a+ / 5.12a
Extension - 7b+ / 5.12c
10 Link up Reuben Greenbank 7b / 5.12b
11 Balles Bak Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 7b+ / 5.12c
12 Attack of the Flying Squirrel Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 7a+ / 5.12a
13 Winds of Change Tom Wright Peter Mortimer 7c / 5.12d
14 Four Wise Cows Peter Mortimer Peter Mortimer 7a / 5.11d
15 Bravely extend your leg 勇敢伸出你的腿 家尧 Jia Yao 家尧 Jia Yao 7a / 5.11d
16 My Little Wonton Reuben Greenbank Wayne 7a+ / 5.12a
17 Kungfu Squirrel Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 7b / 5.12b
18 Dirty Squirrel Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 5c / 5.10a

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Squirrel School


Short easy routes between Little Drip Cave and Flying Squirrel.


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Little Drip Cave 滴水洞


This small cave is just before the Flying Squirrel Crag. The routes are short but steep and bouldery, and lots of fun.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度
1 Forest Fresh Reuben Greenbank Kieran Amin 6b+ / 5.11a
2 Two minutes in heaven is better than one minute in heaven Tim Leong Tim Leong 7b+ / 5.12c
3 Glass Half Full Tim Leong Tim Leong 6c / 5.11b
4 Open Project 家尧 Jia Yao 5.13a??
5 Squirrelicious Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 6c+ / 5.11c
6 Angry Squirrel Trang Bui Trang Bui 7a / 5.11d
7 上大头 家尧 Jia Yao 大头 Da Tou 6c / 5.11b

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Deception Wall


This great multipitch wall is on the hill overlooking the courtyard. It takes 30 minutes walk to get to the base, and a path running along the top will bring you all the way back in under an hour. It faces west and has shade until 1pm making climbing possible even in the hotter months.


The Lonely Sherpa

Bolting and FA by Peter Mortimer and Laelia Jaelle (December 2015)

Varied climbing with rooves, tufas, corners, dihedrals and crimpy faces.

The longest pitch (pitch 3) is 33m. It is recommended to take a 70m rope in case you need to lower off.

Pitch 1 - A roof guards the top of pitch 1. Possibly the hardest move on the route, if you can get through this then you should be able to climb the rest.

Pitch 3 - Some tricky moves on small holds make this the crux pitch of the route.


The Flying Squirrel and the Singing Fish

Pitch 1 - Access Traverse - 5 bolts Traverse to end of ledge and then go straight up to the stance. Don't go diagonally accross the rotten bulge.

Pitch 2 - 7a+ - 10 bolts Early crux up the corner to the right of the small roof.

Pitch 3 - 6a - 9 bolts Up the corner, onto the face and into the cracks.

Pitch 4 - 5a - 5 bolts Traverse left, step down past the rotten tufa, then up and left.

Pitch 5 - 6c+ - 15 bolts Up the corner, tricky crux, then step around left onto the face near the top.

Pitch 6 - 5c - 10 bolts Black slab.

Pitch 7 - 6a - 8 bolts Up the choss, then fun climbing through the roof corner.

Pitch 8 - 7a - 15 bolts Tufa heaven - the best pitch. Exposed jug pulling with a small traverse crux after the roof. Need some long extenders. If you fall off you will be hanging in space. Lower to the slab below, climb back to the anchor and try again.

Pitch 9 - 6a+ - 13 bolts Starts with a delicate traverse, then up the corners and cracks. Anchor hidden on the left of the block.

Pitch 10 - Garden slope - 7 bolts Follow the fixed rope through the grass to the wall then head right.

Pitch 11 - 6b - 8 bolts Final outcrop. Stay left at the top over the large blocks - they are solid.

Pitch 12 - Exit slope - 3 bolts Exit the top pulling on grass and trees.


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朝阳坡 Sunny Hill


The closest crag to Stone Drum House with a 15 minute approach. Face and slab climbs on interesting rock, and great views down the valley.

Sun: Winter - all day sun / Summer - shade until 11:30 am
Rain: No protection and needs half a day to dry after the rain.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Length 高度 Grade 难度
1 vv520 Reuben Greenbank Dou Jiao 豆角 20m 6b+ / 5.11a
2 感恩 Gratitude Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 12m 4+ / 5.8
3 Bicycle Adventure Reuben Greenbank Sylvain Audibert 25m 6b+ / 5.11a
4 Shark Attack Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 17m 6c / 5.11b
5 老夫 Old Husband Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 16m 6a+ / 5.10c
6 老妻 Old Wife Eric Ling 张翎 16m 5 / 5.9
7 红烧屁股 Red Braised Buttocks Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 24m 6a / 5.10b
8 Tune In Tokyo Reuben Greenbank Peter Mortimer 25m 6c / 5.11b
9 Daddy's Boy Reuben Greenbank Peter Mortimer 25m 6b+ / 5.11a
10 Wangcai was a good dog. 旺财是个好狗 Reuben Greenbank Reuben Greenbank 24m 6c+ / 5.11c
11 Squirrel Shit Rachel Hemingway Rachel Hemingway 30m 6b / 5.10d
12 越过三邱 Across the three hills. Reuben Greenbank 周鹏 Zhou Peng 18m 6b / 5.10d
13 蜜蜂在哪里? Where are all the bees? Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 28m 6a / 5.10b
14 豌豆花 Pea Flower Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 18m 5c / 5.10a
15 臭虫 Stink Bug Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 18m 5 / 5.9
16 名杰信 Ming Jie Xin Reuben Greenbank Ling 张翎 15m 5 / 5.9
17 多带水 Bring More Water Reuben Greenbank 李兰 Li Lan 14m 4+ / 5.8
18 Bärli - Little Bear Häns Müller Helen Segmüller 16m 4 / 5.7
19 Pärli - Little Pair Häns Müller Helen Segmüller 16m 5a / 5.9
20 Märli - Little Fairy Tale Häns Müller Helen Segmüller 16m 5c / 5.10a


Where Are All The Bees?

110m 5.10b
Currently there are 4 pitches finishing on a big grassy ledge. We hope to continue the route the top at some point.



The Donkey Kong Dihedral

Continue past Sunny Hill and scramble up along the edge of the rock to find this obvious route. Some really nice climbing with lots of stemming up steep corners. Much easier than it first appears and gives some great exposed climbing on the upper pitches.

Be sure you know how to back-clip whilst rapelling to avoid swinging out away from the anchors.


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Sky Burial Wall 天葬墙


A lone route in a sea of rock.

Route Name 名称 Bolter 开线者 FA 首攀 Grade 难度 Length 长度
1 Sky Burial Josh McCoy Bernard Van De Walle 7a+ / 5.12a 30m

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