Just one and a half hours from Shigu is the village of Liming, the "Indian Creek of China". As you approach, you'll hardly believe your eyes as towering red sand stone up to 200m high makes a sudden appearance, and a stark contrast to the limestone of Shigu.
This has already been established as China's top traditional climbing destination with around 200 routes (300 pitches) of eye watering cracks.
2018 also saw the start of a new era for Liming with the development of completely bolted sport routes. There are now more than 70 routes spread over three areas and four crags. Two crags are on soft sandstone, like the rock with the crack climbing, and are a mixture of cracks and small crimpy features. These crags are close to the road just 4km from Liming and have been bolted with glue-ins.
The most exciting crags are a different kind of much harder sandstone at a higher elevation. They require some transport to drive you 20 minutes to the trail head, and then a 40 minute walk uphill. The rock is much more featured with big roofs and has routes up to 50 metres long.
The most recent guide book is now available as a mobile app and can be purchased at rakkup.com
If you plan on visiting Liming we recommend as a minimum to take two sets of Camelot C4 #0.3 to #3, one #4 and one #5, and one Camelot C3 #0 #00 and #000 (or equivalents in another brand). If you have them, three sets would be better and take doubles of #4 #5 #6 if you like it wide.
From Stone Drum House the best option is getting a private car for 200RMB which takes around 1.5 hours. We can arrange it to arrive after 18:30 in the evening when the ticket gate closes, and so you can avoid the 105RMB park entry.
It is also possible to hitch hike there or you can wait in Shigu for a shared minivan. However, it might take a long time to find a car.
There is also one bus a day which leaves Lijiang around 1pm and passes through Shigu on the way. If you want to take the bus, we can contact the driver to confirm the time.
The best options for budget accommodation are the Faraway Inn 千里之外 and the Time Inn 时光. These are the two places where most of the climbers stay. The Faraway has a nice communal area and lots of arty decorations and the only dorm beds in Liming. It is close to the river though, and some people find the sound annoying. Also, it doesn't get direct sun until after 11 am in the winter.
However, The Faraway owner has been supportive of climbing in the area since the beginning and can arrange a taxi service to the further away climbing areas such as The Guardian Valley, and The Eldorado Crag.